On the occasion of the first international Carignan Day, Pierre Cros had taken some old vintages of his pure Carignan from the cellar, to organise a “vertical” tasting from 1999 up to 2011. Some of these vintages are quite familiar to me, like those from 2002, 2007, 2009, and 2010, but I was curious to see how the older vintages would look like. After a meticulous preparation of the bottles (they were all opened 4 hours earlier and served at 16°C) I could finally taste them, accompanied by friends of Domaine Cros and two passionate wine journalists. The tasting started with the 1999 vintage.
Some of us, being ahead of me, already wrote about the tasting and their favourite wines (2000, 2002, 2004, 2005 and 2010 for Michel S. , 1999 and 2007 for André D. ).
Nach einigen Monaten der Überlegung finden Sie hier unter nun meine eigenen Eindrücke. Damit ich Sie nicht in 13 Jahrgängen endloser Weinpoesie verliere, sollen einige Stichwort ausreichen, um die Weine zu beschreiben, es sei denn, es dürstet mich nach mehr.
2011
2011 creamy, tasty, lively
2010
still young, fruity, few tannins, fresh, citrus aromas
2009
very ripe, full-bodied, great tannin structure, straight, chewy
2008
very fruity, rich, smooth, dense
2007
buttery, fatty, velvety, generous
2006
fresh, still young, full-bodied, well structured
2005
This wine really shows freshness and youth, together with well-structured, fine tannins. It seems to age slowly and may still have a couple of years to go. Great with crispy, roasted duck or a French Cassoulet
2004
gingerbread, chilli, smooth, velvety… quite exotic impressions. Drink now or leave it for another three years
2003
melting, luscious, generous, together with a pleasant feeling of warmth (but much less as one might have expected due to this hot vintage), nice tannins
2002
spices, caramel, silky – a beautiful ten-year old wine. Who would have expected this during harvest? Probably another indication that wine is mainly made in the vineyard. This wine was made by 97 year old vineyard, giving ripe tannins and spicy aromas to the grapes, in spite of the torrential rainfalls during the 2002 vintage.
2001
roasted, smoky aromas, dark fruit marmelade, flowing
2000
smooth, fresh, grassy, chocolate
1999
not much fruit left, but very elegant. A straight wine, medium-bodied, mineral and earthy – warm, freshly ploughed earth on an autumn morning. A wine for chocolate, a wine for cigars, a wine to sit by the fire place. Very intimate…
By André Dominé for Weinwirtschaft
The whole idea was coined by the German oenologist Sebastian Nickel, who; did his study at Montpellier where he runs the Vin Parleur Agency (www.vinparleur.net).
After having fixed the date of the event on February 29, he organized the meeting of Carignan – producers at the Domaine Pierre Cros, Badens in the Minervois. Cros himself is bottling pure Carignan since 1997 from a vineyard planted in 1905, and was offering an up-line selection of his Minervois Vieille Vigne from 1999 to 2011.
Preferentially fermented by carbonic maceration and ripened in older oak barrels, the grape type has shown its considerable potential for ageing and preservation. as the 1999 selection showed to be the most attractive one besides the promising 2007. […]
The Roussillon has been reperesented by the journalist and passionate promotor of Carignan Michel Smith (www.les5duvin.com). Together with five friends he saved one hectar of old Carignan at Tresserre, out of which he wins Puch, a personal interpretation of this grape type, characterizing it as lush, crackling (crunchy?), stimulating and to be served fresh. Being denominated as honorary president for the second Carignan Day, the meeting in 2013 should become even more important.
Already now everyone was fascinated to experience the possible varieties of Carignan wines, some of them being reds of amazingly high class.
Ripe cherries, in colour and in the nose, but also red currant, elderberry and lemon peel. A pleasant mouth feel, almost comfortable, with aromas of stone fruit, black olives and fresh rosemary. Some smooth tannins escort its crispy acidity and give the wine a good balance.
I have met this wine first on its 1999 vintage. Made from the almost forbidden fruits of some very old vines of the Minervois (planted between 1910 and 1930), – Carignan, Alicante, Aramon and Picpoul noir – my palate, used and (de)formed by the taste and aromas of more international grape varieties, was quite confused after the first sip.
“Was this the genuine taste of southern French wines ?”
I’ve never missed a vintage of the Mal Aimés, ever since. I love to taste it in summer or spring, slightly chilled. But I still remember a rainy November lunch, when I served this wine from a decanter on beef and fresh boletus. The food brought out aromas of white pepper, and gave fullness and generosity to the wine.
I really recommend this wine, as it stays a surprise for your taste buds, beyond well-known flavours of standardised wines.
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