Rosé wine now is considered a full-fledged wine, embellishing fresh salads, fish, cheese, exotic dishes, as well as hilarious moments amongst friends all around the year. However, some “typical” rosé wines can still be described as exemplary summer wines, which only intensify our desire for sunshine, swimmingpools and farniente.

The Cuvée “Tradition” by Pierre Cros is one of them. With ease, it seduces with a very bright and shining color and a scent of red fruits, candies, peaches and a touch of tonka beans. Soft and fresh on the palate, with a bit of roundness and a slight bitterness in the finish, its a perfect accompaniment for the aperitif by the pool, together with a few olives and a piece of Cantal Entre-Deux, a full flavoured and spicy cheese from the French Massif Central. Lay back and relaxe, summer is here!

The Cuvée “Partouze”, a successful blend of old Mediterranean vine varieties (Picpoul, Rivairenc, Aramon, Morastel), shows more acidity and citric flavours. A lively rosé, which craves for grilled fish and mussels.

These days, we drink less and less old and ripe wines . A study of the Wine Enthusiast in 2011 showed that “the vast majority—something like 90% or more—of wine purchased in this country (USA) is being consumed within 48 hours after purchasing”. You are right, this study is about the US wine market, but wine-drinking behaviour might be similar in all western countries.

In any case, there is always something exciting about opening an old bottle of wine you somehow forgot in the cellar. Even more, if it’s a bottle made from old grape varieties, that not so long ago had a reputation of being “unworthy” and “bad” . For more than a decade old grape varieties, have proven their quality in this cuvee called “Les Mal Aimés” (The unbeloved).

As expected, the wine shows a light orange-red colour and a slight depot. The nose is rather intense and complex, with smells of plums, smoke and herbs, as well as some spices and light fragrance of elder blossoms. Smooth on the palate, still with crispy acidity and velvety tannins coating the palate. Generous as a 2003 wine should be, it finishes on savoury stewed black fruits. A wine you should taste in silence, late at night…

Like every year, Pierre Cros has presented the new vintage of his Minervois wines this spring. Here’s a small selection of wines for summer and for cellaring:

Cuvée Tradition 2012, red Minervois

This wine made principally from Carignan and Grenache grapes is a real delicacy! An appetizing smell of ripe fruit and herbs, smooth, medium-bodied and juicy in the mouth, this wine is the perfect choice for everyday’s taste pleasure: BBQ, roasted duck or chicken, cheese and bread… You name it! Its “big brother” from 2011 is in top form, showing more tannins and structure on the palate.

Les Mal Aimés 2012, red Vin de Table

Being my favourite amongst Pierre’s wines for years, it also keeps its promises in 2012. A delicious blend of old, traditional grape varieties, Aramon, Alicante, Picpoul noir and Carignan, shows surprising odours of elder berries and plums, together with the freshness of Mediterranean herbs. Suave and straight in the mouth, with a hint of tannins that confer depths and structure to the wine.

Nebbiolo 2012, red Vin de Table

The colour of this wine is as clear and elegant as ever. An intense bouquet rises out of the glass, a skilful melange of sour cherry, forest floor and cinnamon. A velvety mouth feel, straight and clear acidity, delicate finish. Secret and charming…

Les Aspres 2011, red Minervois

Pure Syrah, grown in the rocky soils of “Les Aspres”. More splendid and intense than ever! An almost perfect harmony between power and finesse: Red and dark fruit, cinnamon, vanilla, pepper and fresh humus. Full-bodied and fresh, with dense and silky tannins, this wonderful liquid contains weeks of Mediterranean sunshine. Keep them carefully in you cellar for the next 10 years, at least…

Ripe cherries, in colour and in the nose, but also red currant, elderberry and lemon peel. A pleasant mouth feel, almost comfortable, with aromas of stone fruit, black olives and fresh rosemary. Some smooth tannins escort its crispy acidity and give the wine a good balance.

I have met this wine first on its 1999 vintage. Made from the almost forbidden fruits of some very old vines of the Minervois (planted between 1910 and 1930), – Carignan, Alicante, Aramon and Picpoul noir – my palate, used and (de)formed by the taste and aromas of more international grape varieties, was quite confused after the first sip. 

“Was this the genuine taste of southern French wines ?”

I’ve never missed a vintage of the Mal Aimés, ever since. I love to taste it in summer or spring, slightly chilled. But I still remember a rainy November lunch, when I served this wine from a decanter on beef and fresh boletus. The food brought out aromas of white pepper, and gave fullness and generosity to the wine.

I really recommend this wine, as it stays a surprise for your taste buds, beyond well-known flavours of standardised wines.