You may know a different name for this type of wine: Ratafia, Floc de Gascogne, Pineau des Charentes...
What do they all have in common? They are all so-called liquor-wines (vins de liqueur), traditionally called “Mistelles” in France, made from fresh grape must. Different regions, different names but a common tradition: Prevent the must from fermenting by adding brandy or pure alcohol (up to 16 %vol - 22% vol.) to the fresh must.

Thereafter, the fortified must is laid to rest in big glass bottles or in oak barrels for several weeks, months or even years. In fact, these types of wines sometimes show an amazing aging capacity. I had this experience only a few weeks ago, when a friend told me to come over for a tasting of a long-forgotten bottle of his cellar. The label was completely gone, but he knew that it had been there for at least 16 years. Besides the syrupy, golden and amber coloured aspect of the wine, the real surprise came up when I plunged my nose into the complex bouquet of the wine: heaps of fresh mirabelle, delicate fragrances of white flowers, acacia honey, some dried apricots, as well as raisins and rum…

Though, thick and full-bodied on the palate, it showed astonishingly crispy acidity, that carried the well known aromas of the nose, enriched by some sweet oak flavours, towards a very long final. A genuine taste bomb! A wine to savour on its own or together with some noble products, like chocolate, a Tarte Tatin, blue cheese or cigars.

Still having the after-taste of the wine in my mouth, I can only regret the loss of the tradition of making liquor wines in France, as not that long ago, almost every cellar produced these wines as a by-product. So if you are amongst the happy-ones, who still have some old and forgotten Ratafia or Cartagene in your cellar, be sure to plan a tasting with some good wine loving friends soon!

These days, we drink less and less old and ripe wines . A study of the Wine Enthusiast in 2011 showed that “the vast majority—something like 90% or more—of wine purchased in this country (USA) is being consumed within 48 hours after purchasing”. You are right, this study is about the US wine market, but wine-drinking behaviour might be similar in all western countries.

In any case, there is always something exciting about opening an old bottle of wine you somehow forgot in the cellar. Even more, if it’s a bottle made from old grape varieties, that not so long ago had a reputation of being “unworthy” and “bad” . For more than a decade old grape varieties, have proven their quality in this cuvee called “Les Mal Aimés” (The unbeloved).

As expected, the wine shows a light orange-red colour and a slight depot. The nose is rather intense and complex, with smells of plums, smoke and herbs, as well as some spices and light fragrance of elder blossoms. Smooth on the palate, still with crispy acidity and velvety tannins coating the palate. Generous as a 2003 wine should be, it finishes on savoury stewed black fruits. A wine you should taste in silence, late at night…

Like every year, Pierre Cros has presented the new vintage of his Minervois wines this spring. Here’s a small selection of wines for summer and for cellaring:

Cuvée Tradition 2012, red Minervois

This wine made principally from Carignan and Grenache grapes is a real delicacy! An appetizing smell of ripe fruit and herbs, smooth, medium-bodied and juicy in the mouth, this wine is the perfect choice for everyday’s taste pleasure: BBQ, roasted duck or chicken, cheese and bread… You name it! Its “big brother” from 2011 is in top form, showing more tannins and structure on the palate.

Les Mal Aimés 2012, red Vin de Table

Being my favourite amongst Pierre’s wines for years, it also keeps its promises in 2012. A delicious blend of old, traditional grape varieties, Aramon, Alicante, Picpoul noir and Carignan, shows surprising odours of elder berries and plums, together with the freshness of Mediterranean herbs. Suave and straight in the mouth, with a hint of tannins that confer depths and structure to the wine.

Nebbiolo 2012, red Vin de Table

The colour of this wine is as clear and elegant as ever. An intense bouquet rises out of the glass, a skilful melange of sour cherry, forest floor and cinnamon. A velvety mouth feel, straight and clear acidity, delicate finish. Secret and charming…

Les Aspres 2011, red Minervois

Pure Syrah, grown in the rocky soils of “Les Aspres”. More splendid and intense than ever! An almost perfect harmony between power and finesse: Red and dark fruit, cinnamon, vanilla, pepper and fresh humus. Full-bodied and fresh, with dense and silky tannins, this wonderful liquid contains weeks of Mediterranean sunshine. Keep them carefully in you cellar for the next 10 years, at least…

The scientific reason for this phenomenon, well known by epicureans, has found its explanation. But what is it all about?
To describe the contradiction between the well-known French food and drinking habits and their state of health, food specialists and nutritionist use the expression “French Paradox”. It was Serge Renaud, a specialist for Mediterranean food and Omega3 from the University of Bordeaux, who has coined this expression in the 90ies.

At the Domaine de L’Arjolle, we follow the Mediterranean way of live since generations. That’s why we created our Cuvée PARADOXE in 1992: a tribute to its healthy “cuisine”. But we also called the wine PARADOXE as this blend is made from typical Mediterranean varieties like Syrah and Grenache, as well as from varieties known from Bordeaux, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

And what a joy, when a research team from the University of Angers/France recently discovered how reasonable drinking of wine might protect our cardiovascular system. The polyphenols in red wine seem to dilate our blood vessels and thus lower the risk of heart disease.

It’s a long time since we know that the appreciation of wine, in particular those from the Domaine de L’Arjolle, enhances humaneness and friendliness. So we are even happier now that science has proven that moderately drinking of wine may perlongate the life of our clients and friends.

Cheers!

PS: In France not even half as much people as in the USA or the UK suffer from myocardial infarction. Drinking one or up to three glasses of red wine might protect your cardiovascular system. We totally agree with this precautionary principle.

For more information please read the PRESS INFORMATION OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ANGERS/FRANCE.

A study from Spain, published in 2009 in the Archive of General Psychiatry, suggest that a so-called Mediterranean diet, rich in vegetables and fruits, nuts, olive oil and fish, may prevent depression.

According to a study with over 10.000 people, a Spanish research team from the University of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and the University of Navarra, Pamplona, led by Almudena Sanchez-Villegas, found out, that individuals who followed this special kind of diet where 30 percent less likely to suffer from depression, compared to people who only had low Mediterranean diet scores.

Sanchez-Villegas suggests that some components of the Mediterranean Diet may decrease the chances of developing depression by improving blood vessel function, reducing the risk for heart disease and protecting cells against ageing.

For memory: The Mediterranean diet is rich in cereals, wine, fruits, nuts, and vegetables, fish, garlic and olive oil. On the other hand, it’s quit low in dairy, meat, and it’s free from junk food and fat. Several studies have linked this diet and a moderate consumption of wine to a longer life, less heart disease, and protection against certain cancers.

Eating more vegetables, fruits, nuts, pulses and olive oil, and drinking moderate amounts of alcohol, while not consuming a lot of meat or excessive amounts of alcohol is linked to people living longer.

However, the study also claims, that following a Mediterranean diet high in fish, seafood and cereals and low in dairy products were not indicators of longevity.

While several studies have concluded that the Mediterranean diet improves chances of living longer, this is the first to investigate the importance of individual components of the diet.

Professor Dimitrios Trichopoulos at the Harvard School of Public Health explains that they have surveyed over 23,000 men and women who were participants in the Greek segment of the European Prospective Investigation into Cancer and Nutrition (EPIC).

Participants were given dietary and lifestyle questionnaires when they enrolled onto the study and they were subsequently followed up for around 8.5 years with interviews. Their diets were rated from 0 to 10 based on the level of conformity to a traditional Mediterranean diet.

As part of the interview process, participants were also asked about their smoking status, levels of physical activity and whether they had ever been diagnosed with cancer, diabetes and heart disease.

The authors maintain that when high intake of vegetables, low intake of meat or moderate alcohol intake were excluded from the rating system, the benefits of following a Mediterranean diet were substantially reduced. They also note that there are clear benefits in combining several of the key components, for example high consumption of vegetables and olive oil.

Professor Trichopoulou, lead author of the study, concludes that the main reasons why the Mediterranean diet can lead to living longer are moderate consumption of ethanol (mostly in the form of wine during meals, as traditionally done in the Mediterranean countries), low consumption of meat and meat products, and high consumption of vegetables, fruits and nuts, olive oil and legumes.

Adapted from materials provided by BMJ-British Medical Journal.